Madikwe Game Reserve, Part 2

As I wrote in my previous post, Rishi and I spent three nights at Madikwe Game Reserve (http://www.experiencemadikwe.com/ ), a 75,000 hectare reserve in northern South Africa, just an hour’s travel by car from Gaborone, including the time required to get through immigration and customs at the border between Botswana and South Africa. Until about 1990, the area was farmed, but unsuccessfully due to its poor soil. An independent study commissioned by the South African government suggested that the best choice for economic development in the region would be establishing a game reserve on the land. 

The Madikwe landscape as seen from our Buffalo Ridge Lodge cabin is beautiful but somewhat harsh,
with low trees and scrub. Gaborone lies just to the left of these hills in the distance.

The area was thus enclosed in fencing and stocked with 8,000 animals of 28 species that live in similar ecosystems in Southern Africa. Add that to the animals and birds already present, and the reserve now hosts a wide range of species. The reserve operates as a joint venture between the regional parks and tourism board, the private sector, and local communities.

The young male lions in the front, at about 8 months of age, are just starting to develop their manes.
The female behind is about 5 months.

You might think the place sounds a bit like the San Diego Zoo Safari Park, as I did before I visited. But it’s 100 times the area and though the outer perimeter is fenced, the animals could be anywhere within that enormous area, which means seeing a particular species depends on your guide’s skill, as well as a bit of luck. Plus, the animals are exhibiting their natural behaviors while competing for resources within the habitat. In other words, the predators are killing their usual prey.

Game drive vehicles jockey for position for viewing the elephants.

Madikwe boasts of being a Big Five area, home to the five animals most difficult to hunt on foot -- elephant, tiger, rhino, cape buffalo, and leopard. Of course, hunting these animals now is illegal in the reserve, so rather than stalking them with guns, visitors aim at them with zoom lenses. 

Is this male lion under the tree enjoying another spectacular sunset?

No live buffalo sitings, but we did come across a skull.

We were lucky enough to see three of the big five: lions and elephants, which are well represented there and easy to spot, but also the much harder to find rhinos-- both white and black. No cape buffalo, though we did see a skull, and no leopards. 

We saw a cheetah, which is really special because the reserve has only five of this endangered species. We also came across African wild dogs, another endangered species. We spotted the latter in the evening around sunset, so couldn't get any photos as it was already too dark.  

Cheetah!

Some animals, like the lions, seem accustomed to the safari vehicles so you can get pretty close. 

The rhinos, on the other hand, kept their distance. With elephants, the vehicles can get fairly close but must still keep a respectful distance lest an elephant decides to charge. 

Also seen were lots of antelope species, zebras, giraffes, and my favorite local bird, the lilac breasted roller.

Rishi's great shot of the lilac breasted roller. Yes, it's really that colorful.

Young male kudu.

View from the Buffalo Ridge Lodge's deck.

We stayed three days at the lovely Buffalo Ridge Lodge, owned by the nearby village Balete Ba Lekgophung Community (http://www.buffaloridgesafari.com/?p=30). All of the employees come from the village and profits go back there. The lodge is built into a ridge, so its various spaces are on four levels, with great views of the surroundings. 

This young klipspringer antelope is taking advantage of a leaking hose by the lodge to catch a drink.

Our cabin was lovely as well, and very comfortable.

We're all set for a chilly morning game drive.

Service was great, including little touches like fleece blankets and hot-water bottles awaiting us in the vehicle for the early morning game drives. That’s right, it was cold, about 38 degrees F, and windy too when we started out at 6:30 am. At those temperatures, driving around in an open vehicle is a mite chilly. It was making me wish my down coat was here with me in Africa instead of stored in my Colorado basement. And it was dry, dry, dry, because it hasn’t rained there in quite some time.

Rishi soaking in the sunshine after a cold morning game drive.

We definitely plan to visit Madikwe again, most likely this coming summer after it’s rained, so that we can see how the landscape and animals differ depending on the season..